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1.When slicing, set the retraction distance between 2~3 mm in case of damages and clogging. 2.The Distance between the cooling block and the heating block is 3.2mm, be aware when reassembling the hot end.
Customer Questions & Answers
Q: Is the High-Temperature Full Hotend Kit work for Ender 3 V2?
A: It does not work for Ender 3 V2, Just work For Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro
Q: Can I use the hotend kit with direct extruding full Kits together?
A: The Hotend kit and direct extruding full Kits can not be used together.
Q: Do I must download the firmware to use the High Temperature Full Hotend Kit?
A: You must download the firmware, otherwise the temperature cannot reach 300 ℃.
Q: Can I set the temperature above 300 ℃?
A: No, the maximum temperature can only be set to 300 ℃, and the temperature cannot be exceeded. The thermistor cannot detect the temperature and trigger a temperature alarm if it exceeds 300 ℃.
Q: Do I need to use the High-Temperature Full Hotend Kit with the 3d printer Enclosure?
A: The 3D Printer Enclosure can make the bottom layer of the printed model better stick and improve the success rate.
Q: Can you provide the parameter of the heat pipe?
A: 24V,40W,6*20mm
Integral Frame Rigid Structure
A new generation of Creality 3d printing nozzles, using all-metal kits with a high temperature of 300℃.
Excellent 300℃ Performance
The nozzle is preferably forged from high-temperature resistant alloy and the temperature of the whole nozzle kit is up to 300°C.
Seamless Connection
The new use of Quick-connect jaws prevents loosening of the Teflon tube and achieves seamless connection of the feed material to reduce printing failure.
Optimal Design of Throat Tube
The Optimized design of the throat tube reduces heat conduction and ensures the stability of printing.
Small material moving resistance and sufficient melting, and the extrusion is smooth.
Customer Reviews
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James Clarke
I received a High Temperature Hot End from Creality 3d Official in exchange for an evaluation and review. I am a Software Engineer working with Automated Test Equipment for 30 years and have been 3d printing for almost 2 years now. The physical installation of the hot end was relatively easy but the instructions lacked a few steps as only four were listed on the paper that came with it. Good thing I have replaced my controller card a few times. Updating my firmware was my biggest hurdle. I tried a few different values for #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 and the best I could get it to work was 10 degrees low at 250c or higher.
There were no instructions that came with the hot end about how to update the firmware, when I emailed the Customer Support they replied to me with in hours. They could not supply me with the Thermistor value for #define TEMP_SENSOR_0. I needed it to update my own firmware for the after market controller board I was currently running. However I was given a link to a binary file to update a 4.2.7 silent board, sadly they also could not give me the source code for this binary file either. They did offer $10 off on their store though for my trouble, which was a nice gesture.
I was able to get a 4.2.7 controller board and it seems to be built better than my after market board and runs quieter. Updating the firmware for this card now allows for setting the printer to 300c and the sensor reads stable. I would still like to see the source code files for this as I like to make other changes in the firmware for myself.
Printing PLA is identical to the OEM hot end and I found no major differences in the print quality.
I did have to raise my Z stop and re-level but that is expected after replacing such a major component of the printer. The green Benchy on the right is the high Temp with PLA. The first layer needed a little more squish is all I could tell. I am happy with it overall and not looking for absolute perfection with PLA.
ABS/Poly-carbonate filament from Polymaker was a little different for me but was able to get it to print as well as PLA after two failed prints. The first two prints warped and lost adhesion on the glass surface (see picture with white Benchy). I found that the cooling fan for the new hot end still blows some air down on the part. I used Kapton tape to cover the bottom of the hot end opening and the part stayed adhered and did not warp or separate sections during printing. I do not have an enclosure but I can make sure there are no drafts in my room.
Retraction for this hot end needs to be set between 2 and 3 mm or you may get clogs. Other all metal hot ends are a bit higher but it seems to be working fine at 2.5 for me. I had no stringing on my Benchy in PC filament. But overhangs and bridging will need to be fine tuned in my slicer as to be expected because you don’t use the part cooling fan with PC or ABS.
Overall I am pleased with this new setup and will be keeping it on my printer. There is no difference in my PLA quality so that makes me happy. I am new to the high temperature filaments so I will be making adjustments for now to figure out how to improve them for me.
Recommendations to Creality 3d Official,
1. Update the firmware for the 4.2.7 controller card so that the protocol reporting to Octoprint is not broken. https://community.octoprint.org/t/octoprint-doesnt-show-a-temperature-graph-for-my-creality-printer-with-stock-firmware/23901#double
2. Provide Thermistor value and recommended Max temp setting and source code files for those with after market controller boards and can compile own firmware. This product out of the package requires the 4.2.7 controller card from Creality with out that information making your market base smaller.
3. Place the retraction information setting 2.0 to 3.0 mm for slicers on the instruction card in the box as well as the link for the firmware download.
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/collections/accessories/products/high-temperature-full-hotend-kit
4. Modify the cover for the hot end so that the fan can not deflect air down onto the part. Kapton tape can fix this or a metal cover found here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798106 With out this printing anything like ABS or PC would be impossible with out an enclosure and the modification is so easy to do. Why not provide a better cover for these and make it perform the function it should be doing anyways?
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